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Sewing Tutorial: How to create a Reversible Lillebaby drool bib / topper / headrest cover using Laura Lough (square peg farm)’s FREE pattern! 

Hi everyone! I’ve posted several times how much I love the lillebaby bib and suck pad tutorial by Laura Lough here on WordPress at Square Peg Farm. Her tutorial is clean, concise and shows you how to create an amazing lillebaby accessories set. 
I’m not hoping to reinvent the wheel here. Her tutorial is amazing and works well. The only difference between this version and hers is that this one is fully reversible, meaning you can use it with either side showing. 
So, go get your pattern pieces by clicking here (to take you to Laura’s Tutorial and pattern) or here (Google drive PDF file.

Use the pattern pieces to cut out your 2 main fabrics (woven cotton fabric works best, but you can also use flannel), then meet me back here to the rest of the tutorial! 

**Sidenote regarding fabric choice: if your print goes only in one direction and there is a “top” to the design, you will want to cut out the shorter pattern piece with the widest part on top, with the print going down to the more narrow part of the piece. For the larger pattern piece, it’s the exact opposite, as this piece will be folded down when visible, so cut the larger pieces out with the top of the  print on the more narrow (rectangular) part of the pattern piece and the wider (funny shaped) part at the bottom. 

……Are you back? Alright! 

You need to choose & cut the pattern pieces out of a lining material. Most accessory makers I know use flannel. I prefer a double layer of flannel, as over the past few years, it has gotten significantly thinner. You can also use ZORB, batting, or terry cloth (just be sure to pin pin pin, as terry tends to stretch and bunch) and other absorbent materials.
** The only material I don’t recommend is PUL, the waterproof material. My reasoning behind this is that it will only create a partial waterproof-ness, (if that’s a word) while the rest will get wet and stay wet, because the liner won’t allow the moisture out….This can lead to mold. Mold+baby=dangerous. You want anything you use to be breathable and porous, so that it can dry thoroughly. 


I highly recommend reading this tutorial through in it’s entirety before attempting this.

You may find that you need supplies you do not have on hand or it may very well be too complicated. Always best to read ahead to ensure you have everything you need. (And I should totally take my own advice. I’m terrible at doing this. Haha) 

Also, many apologies for some of the terrible pics. It was about 2 am while I was doing this and I was fading fast because…Kids. you know? 😁😂

….NOW, if you’re ready to start: 

You should have already cut out the front and back fabrics of each piece, then a layer (or 2, in my case) of your lining material. 

-At this point, I like to put the right sides of my outer fabrics facing each other (small pieces together, large pieces together) then put one layer of flannel on the outside of each piece of fabric, like the picture shows…Only not unfolded. (😂😂😂)

Activate tutorial 😀😀😀 (step instructions are above the photos for each step)

Step 1:

-place the smaller headrest piece over the fabric pieces, to line up where your holes will be cut out for the headrest clips. 

-Mark the dot. I like to cut (with a rotary cutter) 2- 1.5″ lines in the shape of a plus sign. This seems to be the best size. Not too small, not too large. You can always go back in with scissors and make the hole a bit larger if need be. 

Step 2: 

-Cut the small triangular liner pieces away from your square

– fold back and press/iron the triangular fabric pieces

– I like to also use a bit of stitch witchery or fabric glue to hold them back before topstitching. 

Step 3: 

– topstitch the right side of the fabric, as close as possible to the lines of your square, to ensure that the hole stays open. I like to also go over this with a decorative stitch for fun. 🙂

Step 4

– stitch the bottom rectangular parts of both the small headrest piece and large headrest piece. (While inside out. Fabric right sides together with liner on the outside) 

– Be sure to leave a 1″ opening for elastic and snaps at the bottom corner of the long piece. (Marked on pattern piece)

– flip entire piece right side out, press open and top stitch…Again, be sure to leave your 1″ opening at the bottom of the larger piece. 

Step 5

– install KAM snaps at the bottom corners of large piece. 

– Be sure to place 2 female parts on the same side and 2 male parts on the other side. 

Step 6:

– fold a 12″ length of coordinating elastic ribbon in half. 

– Place the ends in the 1″ hole at the bottom corner of your large piece (right next to where your snaps are) and pin or glue into place there. 

– Attach the opposite type of snap to the far end of the elastic. This is why you should have placed male with male snap and vice versa.

–  At the end of your elastic, place the opposite type of snap, so that it will snap closed around the infant strap holder in your lillebaby. (Male with female side. 

– Vice versa on the other side) see above pics for reference.

Step 7:

– topstitch that hole closed (be sure to catch the ends of the elastic and go back and forth a few times to add stability). Probably best to do it as close to the edge as possible, or the snaps may cause your presser foot to slide all over (speaking from experience)

Step 8: here comes the fun part. Lol

– Place the 2 matching fabric pieces right sides together (small piece with large piece). To do this, turn the larger piece inside out, placing the smaller piece (which is right side out), inside of it. You want the edges to match exactly, which they should. If they don’t line up, then you have a piece upside down. 

Step 9

– pin it to death. Haha. No. but, seriously? pin it all the way around. There are going to be some very akward angles there, like the inside corners (closest to the bottom of the pieces). 

Step 10

– mark one of the top flat parts of the headrest pieces (doesn’t matter which) to remind yourself to leave an opening wide enough to turn everything right side out at the end. (About 2″-3″) I make my opening the flattest part of the top, sewing approx 1″ on each side after the curves, if that makes sense. (The headrest piece curves in several different spots, but the very top part has a curve on the sides by the holes, then flattens out about 3″-4″. This is where I leave my opening) 

Step 11

– sew the entire thing. 

–  Be sure to catch all 4 layers of fabric when stitching and be sure your decorative outer layers are being sewn together. It stinks having to turn it back inside out. Just go slow and do this step carefully. 

– Don’t forget to backstitch before and after your opening, too. 

Step 12: turn it right side out! 

Step 13: press/iron that bad boy! 

Step 14

– trim your corners, poke them out (carefully). 

– Finish pressing and glue or pin your opening shut

Step 15

– topstitch opening shut. 

– You can topstitch the rest if you like, just remember that one small piece will be sitting inside the other at all times, so don’t topstich with a wide seam allowance.

Step 16:

–  flip one of the small pieces inside out, inside the other small piece. Place your new bib on your lillebaby! 


If you’re having issues using your bib, turning it inside out, etc, please feel free to watch my  youtube tutorial 

Also…If you have made it through this tutorial and decided that this is waaaaaay too much work, then feel free to send me a message or head to  my etsy shop and I can just make one for you. 🙂 

**Special thanks to Laura Lough for this amazing pattern! 


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